Derrick Showcases Sleek and Elevated Menswear at LFW AW24

Derrick, a London-based menswear brand founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Luke Derrick, made its catwalk debut at London Fashion Week AW24, presenting a collection that featured sleek and elevated tailoring, inspired by the designer’s nightly walks in East London. The collection, titled ‘Nightwalking’, explored the idea of restless nightcrawling, and offered outerwear, loungewear, and modern suits, that combined functionality and elegance, for a new generation of men. In this article, we will review the highlights and details of the collection, and the background and vision of the brand.

The Collection: Nightwalking

The collection, which consisted of 18 looks, was inspired by the designer’s 12-minute nightly walks from his studio in Bethnal Green to his flat in Spitalfields, East London. The designer said in the show notes that the collection was an “examination of the allure of restless nightcrawling”, and that it aimed to create a wardrobe that was “suitable for the nocturnal, the insomniac, and the sleepwalker”.

The collection featured a range of garments, such as jackets, tops, joggers, jodhpurs, jumpers, and overcoats, that were made from high-quality fabrics, such as Hainsworth merino wool, cotton terry, and cashmere. The collection also used a muted and dark colour palette, such as black, navy, grey, and burgundy, that reflected the mood and atmosphere of the night.

The collection showcased the designer’s skills and expertise in tailoring, as well as his ability to innovate and experiment with new shapes and silhouettes. Some of the standout pieces included:

• A black jacket with a shawl-drape top, paired with black joggers, that created a sophisticated and comfortable look.
• A navy suit with a double-breasted jacket and stirrup jodhpurs, that added a sporty and modern twist to the classic suit.
• A grey jumper with cut-out detailing on the sleeves and chest, paired with grey trousers, that added some edge and texture to the knitwear.
• A burgundy overcoat with a wide collar and a belt, paired with a burgundy top and trousers, that created a refined and monochrome look.

The collection also featured some accessories, such as black leather gloves, black leather shoes, and black sunglasses, that complemented and enhanced the outfits.

The Brand: Derrick

Derrick is a menswear brand that was founded in 2021 by Luke Derrick, a London-based designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins MA in 2021. The designer has trained at some of the most renowned and traditional menswear institutions, such as Brioni, Alexander McQueen, Dunhill, Rapha, and Savile Row. The designer said that he founded the brand to create “wardrobes that experiment with ideas of lazy elegance, reluctant machismo, and the canon of masculine chic”.

The brand aims to create garments that are functional and elegant, and that appeal to a new and younger consumer, who is looking for quality, innovation, and style. The brand also aims to create a new perspective on British design, that is influenced by the designer’s personal experiences and observations, as well as by the cultural and social context of London.

The brand has already received some recognition and support from the fashion industry, as it was selected as one of the NEWGEN recipients for 2023/2024, a scheme that supports and nurtures emerging British talent, by the British Fashion Council. The brand also received some positive feedback and reviews from the press and the buyers, who praised the designer’s vision and craftsmanship, and the brand’s potential and relevance.

A Promising and Impressive Debut

The catwalk debut of Derrick at London Fashion Week AW24 was a promising and impressive debut, as it showcased the designer’s talent and creativity, and the brand’s identity and direction. The collection, which was inspired by the designer’s nightly walks in East London, offered a range of garments that were sleek and elevated, and that combined functionality and elegance, for a new generation of men. The collection also demonstrated the designer’s skills and expertise in tailoring, as well as his ability to innovate and experiment with new shapes and silhouettes. The collection, and the brand, represented a new and fresh approach to menswear, that was influenced by the designer’s personal experiences and observations, as well as by the cultural and social context of London.