Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented his Fall 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week, and it was a sheer delight in every sense of the word. The collection featured a stunning array of sheer garments, mostly made of silk hosiery, that showcased the craftsmanship and sensuality of the house. The collection was also a tribute to the legacy and vision of the founder Yves Saint Laurent, who was known for his daring and innovative use of transparency.
A Sheer Spectacle at the Salons of Avenue Marceau
The show took place at the original Saint Laurent headquarters, where the salons of Avenue Marceau were transformed into a dark and intimate setting, with leather sofas and draped curtains. The guests, who included celebrities like Zoe Kravitz, Rosé from BLACKPINK, Lily Collins, and Kate Moss, were treated to a close-up view of the models, who walked slowly and confidently in the dim light.
The collection was composed of 48 looks, mostly in black, with some touches of nude, olive, and burgundy. The main theme was the use of sheer silk fabric, which was used to create body-hugging dresses, ruched tops, leggings, and headwraps. The sheer garments revealed the skin and the curves of the models, creating a contrast with the oversized coats, blazers, and furs that added some volume and warmth. The accessories, such as the art deco earrings, the leather gloves, and the platform boots, added some edge and glamour to the outfits.
A Homage to the Master of Transparency
The collection was also a homage to Yves Saint Laurent, who was one of the first designers to experiment with transparency and nudity in his collections. Vaccarello said that he was inspired by the current exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, titled “Transparencies”, which showcases some of the most iconic and controversial pieces by the master, such as the sheer blouse, the Mondrian dress, and the Le Smoking suit.
Vaccarello said that he wanted to do something very fragile and different, that was not necessarily realistic or necessary. He said that he wanted to challenge himself and the atelier, who had to work with the delicate and difficult material of hosiery. He also said that he wanted to honor the spirit and the vision of Yves Saint Laurent, who was always ahead of his time and never afraid to break the rules.
A Bold and Beautiful Statement for the Modern Woman
The collection was not without its critics, who questioned the relevance and the message of the sheer garments, especially in the context of the current social and political climate. Some argued that the collection was too provocative and objectifying, and that it did not reflect the empowerment and the diversity of the modern woman.
However, Vaccarello defended his choice, saying that he did not intend to be provocative or political, but rather to celebrate the beauty and the freedom of the female body. He said that he wanted to show that sheer and sexy can also be elegant and sophisticated, and that he wanted to create a dialogue between the past and the present, between the tradition and the innovation of the house.
The collection was a bold and beautiful statement, that demonstrated the creativity and the skill of Vaccarello and his team. The collection was also a testament to the enduring influence and the genius of Yves Saint Laurent, who revolutionized the fashion industry with his vision and his courage. The collection was a sheer delight, that captivated and enchanted the audience.
