Paris Fashion Week: What to expect from the new debuts

Paris Fashion Week is about to kick off on February 28th, with 71 runway shows and 109 events scheduled until March 5th. The fashion capital will witness some exciting changes in the calendar, as several brands will debut their new collections under new creative directors. Here are some of the highlights to look out for:

Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week

Lacoste: A new vision of femininity

Lacoste, the sporty brand known for its iconic polo shirts, will return to Paris Fashion Week after presenting in New York last season. The brand will showcase its first collection under the creative direction of Pelagia Kolotouros, who joined Lacoste in 2021. Kolotouros, who has worked for brands like Balenciaga and Celine, said that she wants to create “a new vision of femininity for the brand, showcasing more body-conscious silhouettes while embracing the brand codes of French heritage.”

Alexander McQueen: A fresh start

One of the most anticipated debuts of Paris Fashion Week will be Seán McGirr’s at Alexander McQueen, scheduled for March 2nd at 8 pm. McGirr, who was appointed as the new creative director of the British label in 2021, will present his first co-ed collection, succeeding Sarah Burton, who led the brand since McQueen’s death in 2010. McGirr, who has designed for contemporary labels like J.W. Anderson and Uniqlo, will have to bring a sharp and innovative vision to the brand, which is known for its masterful tailoring, subversive aesthetics and dramatic shows.

Chloé: A return to the roots

Chloé, the French house that epitomizes effortless chic, will unveil its new collection under the helm of Chemena Kamali, who replaced Gabriela Hearst in 2021. Kamali, who is of German and Iranian descent, said that her heart has always been with Chloé, as she worked for the brand before joining Saint Laurent. Kamali, who is one of the few female creatives leading a major fashion house, said that she wants to celebrate the brand’s heritage of “romance, freedom and femininity” and bring back some of the elements that made Chloé famous, such as the flou, the prints and the accessories.

Rochas: A revival of the legacy

Rochas, the historic Parisian maison founded in 1925, will introduce its new collection by Alessandro Vigilante, who took over the creative direction in 2021. Vigilante, who has worked for Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and The Attico, said that he wants to revive the legacy of Rochas, which has been through several changes of designers and owners in the past decades. Vigilante said that he will reinterpret the brand’s codes of elegance, sophistication and femininity, while adding a touch of modernity and glamour.

Other newcomers to watch

Among the newcomers to the ready-to-wear calendar are CFCL, a sustainable Japanese knitwear label that works with recycled fabrics, and Zomer, a new label named after the Dutch word for summer, which exhibited off-schedule with Dover Street Market last season. VTMNTS, the sister brand of Zurich-based Vêtements, will show its first runway collection on the Paris ready-to-wear catwalk after it postponed its slot in January. Ester Manas, an LVMH prize finalist who champions size inclusivity, and sustainable brand Germanier, known for its eco-friendly party dresses, will also make their debut at Paris Fashion Week.

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